[kakidac]

For those who want to save for a better transport, a clone of the Shigaraki transport, look no further. The claim transport using JVC boom box and some mod has results better than the Mark Levinson and the renowned CEC TL0.

This is the famous transport

http://www.sakurasystems.com/products/shigacd.html

If u check the price, u will find it $$$

Items and instruction for the mod.
http://tim.cheapo.cc/images/CD%20player%20mods.pdf

but using a cheap JVC boombox, it can be converted. JVC Boombox recommended

1. RC-EZ31 series



Now here is the picture of the RAW transport torn apart from the JVC Boombox. Pls compare it with the Shigaraki transport.



and here is the results. Time taken for the mod is about 5 hours for beginners. [not the bottom one of course]








here is the story

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...229&highlight=

here here

http://www.audiostereo.pl/forum_wpis...at=36475&p=1#k

[wwenze]

No thx, I'll be sticking to the PS1 which is cheaper and even has a top-of-the-class DAC.

[alamakazam]

they markup the price for jvc... ever since they knew its good stuff...

[alvin1118]

may i know where can i buy one?

[kakidac]

Originally Posted by alvin1118

may i know where can i buy one?

The price is SGD 90 for a RC-EZ 31A. Get the mod done and ur cd transport can beat the CEC TL51 and the Mark Levinson.

Item is new and come with Remote control.

The difficult part is to do up the base. The base must really be rock solid and damping for the mechanism.


Here is the part 2 :

http://tim.cheapo.cc/images/CD%20player%20mods.pdf

Oh yes. I am ordering the regulator

AC in 20 V
DC out 8V

[kakidac]

Originally Posted by wwenze

No thx, I'll be sticking to the PS1 which is cheaper and even has a top-of-the-class DAC.

Chk the thread on DIY. This is meant for someone who loves DIY.

[wwenze]

Originally Posted by kakidac

Chk the thread on DIY. This is meant for someone who loves DIY.

Sry I was in skeptical mode.

But can't blame me, for I've seen enough of people hyping cheapo things that are claimed to be better than things hundred times more expensive, only to be revealed as fake when somebody who actually listens do a real comparison.

[alamakazam]

if it is under $100 still quite worth to DIY...

wel anyone has source for it? MAss order?

[kakidac]

Hi Alamak.

I have a few unit available. I guess need to kick start before anyone would want to jump into it.

I hope to show the base one day. The base will be heavy and it is not for order.

I wonder if anyone knows by this

"The magnetic clamper works as a lens cover when not in use"

[yantronic]

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...08#post1474508

Good God! Loading capacitors will decide the effective frequency of the clock system. This is the anti-thesis of jitter-killing that has been pushed around for over a decade.

Let's just say that it's a cool way of tuning "for (pleasant) distortion?" I don't consider a transport that skips from a bad clock something usable.

Then again, this is my worthless 2 cents against those who have tried, and liked the project.

[kakidac]

Here is more to it about the Transport.


http://www.audiostereo.pl/forum_wpis...at=36475&p=1#k

u can use google translator .

[kakidac]

Originally Posted by alamakazam

if it is under $100 still quite worth to DIY...

wel anyone has source for it? MAss order?

My supply is running low. someone has snatched up faster than I do.

[kakidac]

Originally Posted by yantronic

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...08#post1474508

Good God! Loading capacitors will decide the effective frequency of the clock system. This is the anti-thesis of jitter-killing that has been pushed around for over a decade.

In order not to miss the boat, I have snatched up b4 it is too late.

[kakidac]

Originally Posted by kakidac

In order not to miss the boat, I have snatched up b4 it is too late.

I think this mod the most important thing is power supply. So I am taking time to get the correct item.

Phase 1 : power supply, citizen clock

Phase 2 : Audio-gd clock, separate power supply for clock.

[kakidac]

quote


Just got my RCEZ31. My first impressions:
RCEZ32 (the one kevink talks about) has a better DSP chip (and one much closer to original Shig) than the RCEZ31 (which benefits/suffers from Sanyo's integration program which is meant to reduce chip count for low-end designers).
The fact that LC78601RE has to devote significant die space to an integrated u-controller w/ display block, lcd driver, and control processing means corners were cut in other areas and RFI interference between the blocks will be more common. I would rather see the influence of the display and control processing in the signal-processing block minimized by separate physical location, supplies, and decoupling of two separate packages. U-controllers are some of the nastiest sources of noise in a digital system...
On the other hand, what is nice about the RCEZ31 (and which improves on Shig even) is the connection between laser pickup and ASP is made as short as possible, with the ASP located directly under the laser sled. Note however that reducing the distance here increases the influence of spurious radiation and cares should be taken to shield the two blocks with shield lines or anti-EFM material (in early Flatfish it was a ground shield around the eight-lead harness carrying the pickup photodiode and track error signals). Note also that the direct connection between main pcb and laser sled mechanism means that there will be mechanical disturbances created by the servo motors on a pcb stuffed with microphonic ceramic chip caps and digital ICs. I would strongly advice detaching the pcb from the laser sled assembly, and making the connection to the motors via short wires, rather than letting the motors have their ways with that pcb. I would also recommend removing that plastic housing guard over the laser pickup--less is better here--and (unlike 47 Lab Shig) mounting adjustable spikes for the CD player directly on the four stand-offs that support the laser assembly unit, with some added mass, rather than spiking a traditional chassis at some point located a distance from the stand-offs or placing the whole thing on some wood/metal/ceramic plinth. The resonances from the CD mechanism need to leave it as directly as possible, and there is no more direct route than the stand-offs. Also, the manufacture of a precise delrin platter/clamp which fits tightly to the motor shaft without need of any bonding substance is also very desireable.
One thing: do not waste your time. The ASP and DSP will present a bottleneck in terms of spec and number, but have little to do with sound quality: I spent hours playing with different RF amp configs, and putting high-quality passive components into the PLL clock generation circuit (two years of tinkering with Caddocks and BGs on an old Flatfish, where the board was through-hole and parts were easy to swap) to no avail. Besides mechanical construction (which is very important), the biggest bottleneck for a system like this will be the supply regulation, grounding and decoupling. Indeed, some regulators are better tha others, and the 5V regulator sitting inside the MM1469 has at best 75dB rejection at 1kHz during steady state operation (they do anything to optimize their specs); during heavy servo operation, it is far worse, and there is quite alot of noise of all frequencies modulated into the 5V reg block, esp. during TOC and track skip operations. Being a linear reg means that it cannot filter out HF and RF noise, but passes it through: result is a white, bodyless presentation, without fundamental tones (my main criticism of 47 Lab digital players). I won't criticize JVC: budget is budget. It cost me Eu39! Their player is fast, and rhythmic. But the PSRR at 10MHz or at 100MHz is next to nil. The noise will get into your chips, get stored in parasitic capacitances, released a little later, generate offsets, modulate or be modulated by your RF digital signals, generating all kinds of intermod products, noise modulations, etc. etc. My advice: Do not use MM1469 as your final reg. Using the LM7808 as a pre-reg for the MM reg is only half a solution. Using a low-noise, low-output-impedance 5V reg with good dynamic performance (like the ALWSR super-reg or other) for your ASP/DSP combo (and another separate one for the internal 1-bit DAC if you are using the analogue out option) while adding some series resistance before good local decoupling will suprise you even further how good this chip combination can sound.
unquote