I'm very sure all of us have been down this road, one way or another. Some of us now may be professional photographers. Some, amateurs, while others, may have gone on to greater heights. Whatever is the case, we all started from humble roots where we once yearned to know more, but do not know where to go.
This FAQ is intended to assist those who are starting out. it addresses the basic question that newbies have and will not go into the boring details. These are readily available in the links shown below.
Firstly, please post only constructive comments in here, and try not to engage in a flame war. This is written from a Canon point of view, and is purely my own honest opinion. Others may differ and everyone has a right as to what they think is best.
So, you find that your Point n Shoot is no longer fun, and you wish to get a DSLR to further your hobby.
There are alot of questions you may be asking, so, here is a short FAQ to help you decide.
1. Decide on your budget
Its true that if it is possible, everyone will want to get the best possible equipment to start off with. However, not all of us are fortunate to have trees that grow money. We are limited in terms of budget. A good budget for beginners is about $1000 for a very basic startup.
2. Which Brand?
Canon / Nikon / Minolta / Olympus / Sony / Pentax...etc
Each brand has their own strengths and weaknesses,a dn naturally, their own mounts. Meaning: You cannot fit a Nikon lens into a Canon lens without an adaptor.
The most important factors that you should take note of is:
a. Availability of equipment
If you have a friend /family member / [ insert person ] here who you are rather close with, you might want to get the same brand of body that he/she has. Reason is that by having the same mount, you may be able to borrow their lenses, to have a feel of what you like to shoot. You can also get valuable tips from them when you just start out.
b. Presence of used market
It makes no sense to have the best of the best, only to find that You don't have the budget to get new lenses. The used market provides a very attractive proposition to obtain new equipment used, for a fraction of its price.
3. Film, or Digital
It depends on your preference. Film has a cheaper startup cost, but is heavy on consumables. Digital has a heavier startup cost, but allows for experimentation.
Frankly speaking, I'd go for digital if i were you.
4.What is the starting equipment that I need
1. DSLR Unit
2. At least one lens.
3. Dry Box or Dry Cabinet
4. Batteries
5. Memory Card
5. Any suggestions
Using prices as of September 2006
1. Used Canon 300D with Kit Lens for $500-700. Should come with original battery, charger
2. 1GB high speed memory card @ under SGD$40.00
3. Dry cabinet @ $60
Total Expenditure: SGD$700.00.
Note: I highly recommend that you start off with a model that can use EF-S lenses. This mount provides the flexibility of using either EF or EF-S mounts. 300D, 20D, 350D, 30D, 400D
6. Starting out with lens
There are typically 3 Ranges when we are talking about lenses.
Wide: Eg 16-35mm
Normal: Eg 24-70mm
Tele: Eg 70-200mm
Notice how they all nicely overlap each other?
Now, Adding on to this range
Generally
Landscape ( wider ): 10-24mm
Wide: 16-40mm
Normal: 28-85mm
Tele: 70-200mm
Wildlife ( Extreme Tele ): 200mm and above.
a. 18-55mm kit Lens.
Your virgin lens. This will be your do all for quite a while.
Typically used for wide-angle / landscape / general-purpose
b. 70-300mm Range
Your very first telephoto lens.
You have a choice of
Canon 75-300mm
Sigma 70-300mm Macro
Tamron 70-300mm
Allows you to snipe shot and produces reasonable pictures. After a while, you'll learn how useful a support / Image Stabiliser can be.
c. 50mm F1.8 II Prime
Useful for portraits and low light work
This provides for a cheap way to get fast lens. Also allows you to learn the best zoom method in the world. " Zoom with your Feet"
With the above 3 lenses, you will learn which aspect of photography you are most interested in. Be it
i. Casual Shooting
ii. BEO-ing ( Sniper )
iii. Landscape / Urban Landscape
iv. Macro
v. Wildlife
vii. Events
viii. Sports
However, i cannot stress that the most important aspect of learning is the 3s.
SHOOT, SHOOT, and SHOOT
What is more important is the skill of the photographer, rather than the equipment he/she uses. Remember InitialD? Mastery of the AE86 compared to posers with powerful cars.. "I can't believe i was beaten by a 10 yr old car!! "
7. Equipment Progression
After a while, you may find that something is lacking.
a. External Flash Unit
b. Tripod / Monopod
c. Proper Camera bag
d. Remote Shutter Releases
8. Lens Recommendation
Some recommendations, in my honest opinion. This is highly subjective, and depending on your needs, it may or may not be applicable
Again, I will focus more on Zooms, as most beginners would prefer versatility compared to Fixed. Don't get me wrong. Primes often product sharper images, and there are plenty of other well reknowned brands like Leica / Contax Zeiss..etc, but this is for beginners.
Wide
Sigma 12-24mm F4.5-5.6 EX DG ASPHERICAL HSM
Canon EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
Canon EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Sigma 18-50mm F3.5-5.6 DC
Sigma 17-35mm F2.8-4 DG
Canon EF-S17-85mm f/4.0-5.6 IS USM
Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4.5 DC MACRO
Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM
Sigma 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 DC
Tamron SP AF18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di-II LD Aspherical [IF] Macro
Canon EF-S17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM
Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L USM
Tamron SP AF17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical [IF]
Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 EX DC
Normal
Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM
Sigma 28-105mm F2.8-4 DG
Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM
Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 EX DG
Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM
Tele
Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM
Sigma 70-300mm APO DG MACRO
Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 IS USM
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 DG
Sigma 50-500mm F4-6.3 DG
Tamron AF 200-500mm F/5-6.3 Di Model A08
Accessories
Sigma / Kenko / Canon 1.4x Teleconvertor
Sigma / Kenko / Canon 2.0x Teleconvertor
Flash
Sigma EX DG500 Super
Canon Speedlite 420ex
Canon Speedlite 580ex
9. Lens Progression
In the Beginning
Canon 18-55mm Kit Lens F4-5.6 II USM
Level I upgrade- Under $500
Walkabout: Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM $450 / <$300
or
Fast: Tamron SP AF28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) MACRO (Model A09) $610 / $450 <=STAR BUY
or
Telephoto: 70-300mm Lens ( Either Canon / Sigma / Tamron. Recommended Sigma 70-300m F4-5.6mm Macro $340 / $200+
Macro/Portrait: Tamron SP AF90mm F/2.8 Di MACRO 1:1 (Model 272E) $590 / $ 500 b]<=STAR BUY[/b]
Low Light / Portrait: Canon 50mm F1.8 II $160 / $100
Level II upgrade - $1200
Walkabout:
Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4.0-5.6 IS USM $1050 / $800
Canon EF 17-40 F/4.0L USM $950 / $1200
Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4.5 DC MACRO $600+
Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 / Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 $600+
Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 $600+
Telephoto:
Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM $1200 / $1000+ <= Image Stabiliser
or
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM $1200 / $950
or
Sigma 70-200mm F/2.8 Dg EX APO $1600 / $900 <= BEST!
Don't forget the 1.4x / 2x Teleconvertors
Level III upgrade - $Infinity
Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM $1880 / $ -
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM
Canon EF 24-105mm F/4L USM
Anything under the Sun.
To give you a hint on how long 300mm is, you can stand in one shop, and zoom in to a shop on the other side of the building.
10. To IS or not to IS
Image Stabiliser Technology sometimes make or breaks a shot
Basically, IS on short lenses are designed for low light shots, while IS for long lenses are designed to stabilise the lens for hand held Shots. As Image Stabilisers generally adds a hefty premium to the cost of a lens, Its up to you.
Me? I'd prefer IS anytime. Increases your chances of a great shot if your partner/GF/Wife needs to use the DSLR to shoot you.
11. Hood Hood??
MYTH: Hoods are generally used to prevent flares from showing up on the pictures
FACT: Actually, they are used just to make you look Pro. Consider Person A shooting with a hood and Person B shooting without. Who will people respect more?
Hahaha
Pun Intended. But the truth is, hoods are really used to reduce flares under direct sunlight conditions.
Soon to be updated
Linear Mode
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