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sky445 Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
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Project: 1st Timer sky445 Oct 8th, 08, 04:12 PM #1 (permalink)
Hi all, i'll be building my first rig bought with my own cash so i'm looking towards a rather ambitious project. I have purchased a silverstone SG02. This project would be done over a period of 2 months as i'll purchase the rest of the items in Nov/ Dec

Box and casing


Front


Left


Right


Top


Rear


The top of the casing is currently at uvnium awaiting cutting so that i can put an acrylic panel on the left.

Currently i'll be painting the inside blue and the external black. I'm totally new to this. Anyone able to offer advice? I have read tutorials on painting. However, most of them result in an extremely shiny surface. I'm looking at more of a matt finishing. Also, is it possible to use brush painting instead of spray paint as want to be more precise with the colours? Any forseeable problems coming from this?

Also, I'm considering removing the rivets by drilling so as to remove the 5.25" drive bays and the support beam so i paint them individually. Anyone done before? Is drilling recommended or are there alternative methods?

I have since disassembled the casing and this is the result




Have bought a number of spray cans as shown in pic below

From left: 400grit sandpaper, RJ London Dull Lacquer, White Flat (as base for the Flourescent Blue), Flat Black (External), Flourescent Blue
 
Last edited by sky445; Nov 22nd, 08 at 02:24 PM..
sky445 Registered User
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sky445 Oct 8th, 08, 04:17 PM #2 (permalink)
Have decided on Design 3 as side panel. Would probably be meeting nicholas over the week to do the laser engraving.

Design 3


Went to Nicholas for Laser Engraving. Heres the result. Did it for 30 bucks. Well worth the price IMHO






Have completed painting on the casing parts. However, main casing remains half completed as i ran out of blue halfway

Case Components
The casing accessories with the screwed flourescent blue painting sanded off


Completed painting of casing accessories.



MAIN CASING

FRONT

BOTTOM


BACK
 
Last edited by sky445; Nov 22nd, 08 at 03:40 PM..
sky445 Registered User
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sky445 Oct 8th, 08, 04:19 PM #3 (permalink)
Update 151108

Painting Completed!

LEFT


RIGHT


FRONT


BACK


REASSEMBLY TIME

TOOLS OF THE TRADE


THE ASSEMBLY 1


THE ASSEMBLY 2


RIVETS USED
 
Last edited by sky445; Nov 22nd, 08 at 03:41 PM..
sky445 Registered User
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sky445 Oct 8th, 08, 04:21 PM #4 (permalink)
FRONT PANEL SLEEVING

ORIGINAL


COMPLETED


COMPLETED 2
 
Last edited by sky445; Nov 22nd, 08 at 03:41 PM..
sky445 Registered User
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sky445 Oct 8th, 08, 04:25 PM #5 (permalink)
FINISHED PRODUCT 1


FINISHED PRODUCT 2
 
Last edited by sky445; Nov 22nd, 08 at 03:42 PM..
sky445 Registered User
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Hardware Hoots. sky445 Oct 8th, 08, 04:49 PM #6 (permalink)
Rams at Sitex - 130 per pair. The extra pair is for my friend
 
Last edited by sky445; Nov 27th, 08 at 04:00 PM..
sky445 Registered User
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sky445 Oct 12th, 08, 02:18 AM #7 (permalink)
Have bought my paints from soon sin aik paints. Prices were all $4 with the exception of flourescent blue which cost me 7 bucks

Bought
1. Nippon Pylox White Flat 102A (primer/ basecoat, didnt use the proper primer as shop uncle recommanded that i needed a white base for my flourescent blue
2. Nippon Pylox Black Flat 109A (External of Casing)
3. Nippon Pylox Flourescent Blue 406 (Internal of Casing)
4. RJ London Dull Lacquer (Hopefully it jsut gives me the protection of lacquer and not the gloss as recommanded by shop uncle)
5. 400 Grit Sand paper (Need help on this! Is 400 Grit still considered too coarse? this was the finnest Grit i was able to find at the Paint Shop)

Would be posting up pic of paints on sun night/mon morn and starting on paint on tues
 
bianco
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bianco Oct 12th, 08, 02:25 AM #8 (permalink)
i think 400grit ok. but you just sand lightly... no need to make deep scratches, the paint/primer just needs something to 'hold' on to. for me, i actually used the 3m sanding block, the finest one. but didn't sand that deep too. just lightly.

actually the proper primer quite good, it's a really good base for the rest of the coats. why didn't you go for the primer > flat white > blue?

good luck on your build!
 
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sky445 Oct 12th, 08, 02:33 AM #9 (permalink)
Thanks for the help bro. Was actually considering that but was abit worried that the coat would be abit too thick?

Was told by the shop uncle that the proper primer was mainly for the anti rust function. Hence just a normal light coloured paint for the next few layers to hold on to would have been sufficient?
 
bianco
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bianco Oct 12th, 08, 02:44 AM #10 (permalink)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sky445 View Post
Thanks for the help bro. Was actually considering that but was abit worried that the coat would be abit too thick?

Was told by the shop uncle that the proper primer was mainly for the anti rust function. Hence just a normal light coloured paint for the next few layers to hold on to would have been sufficient?
hmm... yeah.. good point. as long as you don't get overzealous with spraying, it should be pretty even. mine, i spray lightly and move on to next segment even if i don't see that the previous part was black or got color. after that first batch of spray, start again from top/bottom... spray lightly.. a few batches later... can see the color sticks.

you can try on some other metal first before working on your case. see how. that's what i did first. first trial was without primer, just paint... chips off easy. then with primer second trial, had more hold. so i went with primer first.
 
sky445 Registered User
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sky445 Oct 12th, 08, 11:45 AM #11 (permalink)
ok bro, would try with other steel sheet before i do the actual paint. If its really bad i'll just go get the primer and see how it goes.

Thanks!
 
bianco
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bianco Oct 12th, 08, 02:42 PM #12 (permalink)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sky445 View Post
ok bro, would try with other steel sheet before i do the actual paint. If its really bad i'll just go get the primer and see how it goes.

Thanks!
np bro. i had to use primer because paint usually sticks less to aluminum. the cosmos case is aluminum. also, primer got that powdery grainy material. makes it feel like textured surface which is quite nice. haha.
 
sky445 Registered User
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sky445 Oct 12th, 08, 03:07 PM #13 (permalink)
Icic. Actually thats the type of feel im going for if possible. Textured surface with grainy so that i can achieve my matt look. Would post pics tomorrow night once i start the Paint.

Anyway the steps I'll be undertaking would be
!) Light Sanding with 400 Grit
2) Wash surface of Casing with Mama Lemon
3) 2 layer primer/base coat with 15 - 30 min dry time inbetween
4) 3 layers paint with 30 = 40 mins break
5) 2 layers dull lacquer with 15 mins break
6) light sanding with 400 Grit if needed
 
bianco
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bianco Oct 12th, 08, 03:27 PM #14 (permalink)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sky445 View Post
Icic. Actually thats the type of feel im going for if possible. Textured surface with grainy so that i can achieve my matt look. Would post pics tomorrow night once i start the Paint.

Anyway the steps I'll be undertaking would be
!) Light Sanding with 400 Grit
2) Wash surface of Casing with Mama Lemon
3) 2 layer primer/base coat with 15 - 30 min dry time inbetween
4) 3 layers paint with 30 = 40 mins break
5) 2 layers dull lacquer with 15 mins break
6) light sanding with 400 Grit if needed
final sanding might not be needed after final coating. mine, after clear coat, i dare not touch anymore. haha. looks good liao.
 
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Jerrold Oct 12th, 08, 05:39 PM #15 (permalink)
400 grit is rather coarse , depending on what use you need it for . Just dont apply too much pressure
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